Let me Guess—You’re a Secret Agent! No, a Banker! OK, I Give Up…

Ask the WDG Friday…

Robert Laird asks, “Are bowler hats for the eccentric, or anyone? Or is anyone that wears a bowler an eccentric?”

That is a very good question indeed, Mr. Laird! For my part, I have strong leanings to the classical style wardrobe, which isn’t eccentric, and yet…and yet I really like the Bowler hat, otherwise known as the “Derby.” I plan on obtaining one as soon as funds permit. But this doesn’t answer your question—for all I know I’m an eccentric; I should ask my wife about this, she would surely know. But I digress. Let’s stick to facts as best we can.

The Bowler was designed by Lock & Co Hatters at the request of one William Coke, who wanted a special hat for his gamekeepers—a hat that wouldn’t be smacked off by violent branches and forest undergrowth. The hat designed was (and is) a rigid, dome shaped number that does indeed stay on very well under those circs.

Originally, the hat was called (surprisingly) a Coke hat. It wasn’t until circa 1850 that it came to be called a “Bowler hat,” when the firm of Bowler & Son began making this style of hat.

So what happened to the Bowler? Into the late 1960’s even it was THE hat for London stockbrokers and bankers; and then…well, it’s hard to say. Could the French be responsible? One wonders, because who wants to wear a hat called, by an entire nation mind you, a “chapeau melon”? I think most fashion conspiracy theorists will agree this is pretty darn suspicious; after all, it’s one of those glaringly yet subtly rude comments the French are so good at—those who know the French know that what they are really saying when they say “chapeau melon,” is “Your head is shaped like a melon/you’re a melon head.” Cuts one to the quick, it does, with the result that nowadays you’ll see Bowler hats on the Queen’s Guards officers as part of their civilian dress, but on almost no one else.

Yet, I think everyone will agree or disagree that it is an elegant hat. It is also perhaps the most English of all English clothing. But on what occassion can a gentleman wear it these days? To solve this conundrum, consider that 1960’s spy show, The Avengers. Secret agent John Steed, as cool a secret agent as any of them, sported the Bowler. Why? Because he was working under cover as a game keeper? No, simply because the hat looks dashing, which means technically one can wear it anywhere, whatever the French may say—we just have to ignore their snide comments.

Now I’m not saying that every man in the world can or should wear a Bowler hat, but the more of us that do—and outside of our homes—the less eccentric and more acceptable will the Bowler once again become. I mean to say, when in the USA styles from the 1970’s are making a come back (a sure sign of society’s decay) then are we to suppose that the Bowler hat, head gear of choice of a real-life television-show secret agent, is eccentric? Faugh! I do not often employ such a strong turn of phrase, but there are times when it is necessary. I do not apologize.

So in answer to your question, practically any gentleman can wear a bowler hat and hold his dashing head high. Whether that means those who wear them are eccentric remains to be seen; but when lots of gentlemen start donning Bowlers those who began the trend anew will be considered not only fashionable, but fashion prophets! Whatever happens, I don’t think you can go wrong wearing this most English headgear, popular or not.

Yes, there is the chance people will stare—probably because you look awesome. But if it is a laughing, mocking stare, I think John Steed would say to them something like, “Not all gentleman can wear such a dashing hat; you’re certainly better off without one,” then smile an ironic smile and walk away, gentleman to the end. I should add that John Steed would have one hand on his umbrella, ready to smite the scornful fellow (who is probably a jealous Frenchman) in case the mocker becomes enraged at having received such a suave yet stinging reply.

It all boils down to this: Wear a Bowler hat if you desire, carry a sturdy umbrella, and say “Faugh” to eccentricity.

[Notes:

1. I am only referring to the perceived eccentricity of the wearer of a Bowler hat when I write, “say faugh to eccentricity.” Eccentricity is sometimes, well, eccentric and generally to be avoided. Seemingly eccentric modes of style must be examined on a case by case basis. It is in this particular case, viz the Bowler hat, that saying “faugh” is, I believe, the proper, though perhaps shocking, reply.
2. No actual Frenchmen were hurt in the writing of this column.]

You Smell…Good

The History of the Well-Scented Gentleman

Everyone smells of something. Not everyone smells of something that reminds one of a fresh Spring morn, with dew on the grass and a light wind blowing the scents of lilacs and roses about (Not that a gentleman should smell like that of course, but you get the picture). One thinks of ancient times when baths weren’t really invented yet, and few smelled like a spring morn.

To be fair, back in ancient times, when our parents were young, it wasn’t so easy to exude a pleasant scent—one had to carry around a clove-studded orange to smell nice, or a bag of potpourri. In those days this was necessary, because they still bathed employing the ancient Roman method of covering oneself in olive oil and dirt, then scraping it off with a sort of curved, dull knife.

Once Beau Brummell came along, that all changed. He bathed in water, every day, which was unheard of at the time (a foppish luxury), and dressed to the nines: Thus ended the ancient Roman cleansing ritual. It also ended Rome; they brought in so much water on the aqueducts for Beau Brummell-style bathing that their irrigation system crumbled, indirectly leading to the fall of the Roman Empire and modern plumbing.

These historical events still affect us today, even though they occurred a long time ago, around 1975.

So, we’ve established a historical basis for smelling, shall we say, dandy. Now we can look at present scent conditions, which really aren’t that much different than back in Beau Brummell’s day, and we will understand them all the better for knowing our history.

In our modern times, we still participate in the daily cleansing, either by bath or by shower, using scented soaps for the most part, which renders us looking and smelling, as they say in Annie, “Beau Brummelly.”

But a gentleman doesn’t have to stop with soap! There’s also cologne.

Like with almost anything, temperance is a key ingredient to success in the scent department. Over do it and you will have few friends (how many of the lads do you see hanging out in the cologne department at the store? The mix of 50 different colognes in a confined space causes such ailments as high cholesterol, dyspepsia, confusion, uncontrollable spasms of the nostrils, and dislocation of the corneas). Under do it and no one will notice anything. There should be a subtle sense of pleasant aroma—enough to tell it’s cologne, enough to make the statement “I am not an ancient Roman,” to all whom you meet or pass.

You definitely want women to “hear” this statement, a) because it’s gentlemanly to not only not offend their sense of smell, but to present a pleasant scent to them—almost like giving them a bouquet of flowers, and b) you will find it much easier to find a woman to marry if you smell nice. And women do notice—to whom does a husband go when he isn’t sure if the milk has gone bad or the meat rancid? One’s wife. They have a keen sense of smell. Unless they have a cold. If they do, find a woman somewhere and have her smell the questionable food—do not try to discern edibility on your own.

Now there’s no good providing the knowledge, historical and otherwise, without providing the next step—what colognes to wear. Here are some classic and ever popular brands to look for:

Polo, by Ralph Lauren

Grey Flannel: excellent with a classically inspired wardrobe.

Acqua Di Parma: once quite exclusive, made popular by designer Diego Della Valle.

Eau Sauvage, by Christian Dior: A classic fragrance, world renowned, always proper.

Extract of Limes, Trumper: If you don’t want a fragrance from a perfumerie, and you wear classic English clothing (say, from, or like, Savile Row and Jermyn Street) try this—it can be found in venerable and established gentlemen’s clothiers.

Giorgio of Beverly Hills: scents of orange and bergamot, refreshing and spicy. It’s a glamorous sort of cologne, great for the movie-star type.

Eau d’Hermes: A bit different from the rest in that it is for men and women.

Knize Ten: From the grand Viennese gentlemen’s clothier, Knize. Uber-classic, it is the scent of high-class, Viennese-tailoring craftsmanship.

Vetiver, by Guerlain: A sweet, earthy-woody scent.

Paco Rabanne Pour Homme: Most excellent with a Mediterranean ensemble (as opposed, in general, to a classic English outfit).

Halston Z-14: A modern-ish fragrance, without being contrary to a more classic wardrobe.

Musgo Real: No, not cologne, but after shave, and dating back to 1887. Very neat.

There are many more, to be sure. But this is a pretty comprehensive list of classics.

As a final note, gentlemen’s fragrances tend to be drier than women’s, consisting of scents like tobacco, wood, leather, herbs, spices and mosses, and are generally less flowery—but in recent years, men’s and ladies’ scents have become more similar, resulting in “unisex” fragrances. I don’t know about you, but I want to smell like a guy—give me tobacco any day—the ladies can keep the more floral notes.

As for Beau Brummell, remember this: he’s dead—each of us gents is the new Beau Brummell now.

Pip-pip and Cheerio!

The WDG Tips his Fedora to...

SavileRow.com, the webzine for gentlemen. Want to know more about the bespoke tailors on Savile Row? Wondering how to define a "business wardrobe"? Trying to keep your life in order? Oh, there's all sorts of good stuff on this glorious site!

Men's Flare. Brimming with gentlemanly style. In their own words:

Men’s Flair is born from the idea that Internet lacks a magazine written by real style addicts who live what they preach, a magazine that is aimed at a today’s consumer who has flair for style and interests beyond fleeting looks of the season. We glorify style that is real and true, natural and unpretentious, sound and relevant, balanced between traditional and modern, a style that trusts classics and acknowledges trends, with good taste being the main criterion.

With that, I bid good night to you, gents! Tomorrow, everything you need to know about...well, that's tomorrow...

Tie Tuesdays Returns!

Introducing, again, our reknowned tie-expert, The Well-Groomed Gentleman--welcome back, Old Cork...

With apologies and thanks for the several week hiatus, we return to our discussion of the necktie with the classic and most basic method: the four-in-hand. The most likely origin for this name comes from London's Four-in-Hand Club, whose members adopted the knot, thereby popularizing its use. The knot, although asymmetric, is elegant in its simplicity, and is the perfect knot for the beginner. If you're learning to tie a tie for the first time, this is the place to begin. If you're teaching your son, nephew, godson, or grandson to tie his tie, this too is the place to begin.

Although U.S. Army Regulation 670-1, on the appearance of the uniform, describes the black tie worn with the Class A and Dress Uniforms as a "four-in-hand" tie, other knots are also authorized. Since the uniform tie is narrower and of slightly bulkier fabric, it is particularly suited for the four-in-hand method.

1.) Begin by placing the tie around the neck, with the seam facing your body, and the wider end of the tie (on your left) hanging longer than the narrower side (on your right).

2.) Take the wide end of the tie over the right, passing it behind, and then around the front.

3.) Pass it once more behind (from left to right), creating a loop.

4.) Pass the wide end from the back up through the loop around your neck, and then pass it through (from top to bottom) the loop created in step 3.

5.) Snug the knot against your shirt collar.

6.) Impress everyone.

Thomas Fink has a comprehensive method, including shorthand, for instruction in tying these knots here. You may also consult Tie-a-Tie.net for an easy-to-follow method.

What's on the Ol' Top...

...and some gentlemanly, dapper, dandy quotes

What are the gents of today wearing on their heads?  Anything at all?  Behold, the results, in order of most popular:

1 Fedora

2 English Driving Cap

3 Panama

4 Baseball Cap

5 Beret

6 Homburg

7 I don't wear a hat ever!

8 And tied in last, Trilby, Bowler and Top Hat

No one is wearing a Tri-Corner though.  But you never know, they sell them at Colonial Williamsburg, so one of the lads out there may be wearing one.  Being an amateur historian of the Revolutionary War and a lover of the 1700's through 1820's, I intend to get one, and wear it--well, I guess around the house. 

Quotes about Hats, Suits and Fashion:

The hat is the ultimum moriens of respectability.
From: The Autocrat of the Breakfast-Table. viii.
 ..Oliver Wendell Holmes
(1809–1894)

"Wearing a hat is like having a baby or a puppy; everyone stops to coo and talk about it." (Louise Green)

"Fashion is a kind of communication. It's a language without words. A great hat speaks for itself." (author unknown)

"Saying you don't look good in a hat is like saying you don't look good in shoes!" (author unknown)

"Nice hat." -Pirates of the Caribbean

Saying you don't look good in a hat is like saying you don't look good in shoes!

Wearing a hat versus not wearing a hat is the difference between looking adequate and looking your best. (Martha Sliter)

"Good clothes open all doors" - Thomas Fuller

"A gentleman will take care that his clothes are of the best quality, well-made and suitable to his rank and position." - Prince Albert

"Eat what you like, but dress for other people." - Benjamin Franklin

"… there comes a time in every man's life when they must ultimately dress their age." - Gian DeCaro

"The Apparel oft proclaims the man" - William Shakespeare

"A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life" - Oscar Wild

There is hardly anything in the world the some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only, are that man's lawful prey." - John Rushkin (1819-1900)

"Only shallow people don't judge by appearances" - Oscar Wilde

"For fashion, quite simply, is the code language of status." - Tom Wolf

"Gentlemen's clothes are a symbol of the power that men must hold and that passes from race to race." - F. Scott Fitzgerald

"He was a tubby little chap who looked as if he had been poured into his clothes and forgot to say 'when'. - P. G. Wodehouse.

"I am convinced that nothing has so marked an influence on the direction of a man's mind as his appearance, and not his appearance itself so much as his conviction that it is attractive or unattractive." - Count Leo Tolstoy

"Dignity, and even holiness too, sometimes, are more questions of coat and waistcoat than some people imagine." - Charles Dickens

"Social acceptance can be won with a wardrobe." - Marilyn Bender

"Know first who you are; and then dress accordingly." - Epictetus

"For clothes are not primarily the covering of the body, they are the vesture of the mind." - James Laver

"Dress is a very foolish thing; and yet it is a very foolish thing for a man not to be well dressed, according to his rank and way of life." - Lord Chesterfield

That Sound...I've heard that Sound Before

Ask the Well-Dressed Gentleman Friday

Francis Girardi provides us with a question of etiquette this Friday before Memorial day, and it’s rather good timing. He asks, “What’s the deal with all the whining I hear lately? I don’t mean from women, I mean from men. Any idea? It’s hurting my ears.”

At the risk of being redundant, let’s seek the definition of whining from the good old 1942 Webster’s (perfect it being Memorial Day Weekend, when many of us remember the Greatest Generation, because this is the definition that soldier’s in WWII would have known):

“Whine, verb—to utter a low plaintive nasal sound, esp. in complaint or distress; hence, to complain or to beg in a mean or unmanly way. To utter or express with a whine; noun—a whining or the sound of it; hence, mean or unmanly complaint.”

Notice the modifying word that accompanies “complain” and “beg”—unmanly. There is a time to complain and even to beg. It depends how you do these things, and to what purpose.

For example, if you ordered your fillet mignon medium rare and are served a piece of meat that was put through the tanning process, you should complain, and get the steak you ordered; not only because you’re paying good money for it, but for the sake of the restaurant as well, the manager perhaps not realizing that their new steak chef is incinerating the cuisine. Once the matter is rectified, a gentleman should, generally, not mention the matter again—this would be unmanly and unnecessary complaining, viz, whining.

“Yes, that’s all well and good,” you might be saying, “but what about begging? Is there ever a time to do it?” Surprisingly, yes, and there is an excellent example of begging from one of the best movies of all time, about one of the best characters of all time—It’s A Wonderful Life. The stock market has just crashed, customers of the Bailey Building and Loan are storming the premises to withdraw their money. Then a fellow comes over and says that Mr. Potter, the bad guy, will give everyone 50 cents on the dollar for bringing their accounts to the bank, which he just took over. If the Bailey Building and Loan goes into bankruptcy it means Potter will own the entire town and become a ruin, a slum. Then George Bailey says, “I beg of you not to do this thing!” {emphasis original to the line as said by Jimmy Stewart}. This is manly begging, greatly desiring to do good and to avert serious evil being brought upon others. He then does what a true gentleman would do—encourages them not to despair, and he gives away a huge amount of his own money—the money for his honeymoon in fact, when he was finally going to travel the globe—in order to keep the people and the Building and Loan solvent. He never did get to travel (not that we see in the movie anyway). The un-whining manliness and gentlemanliness of his actions are truly inspiring. And he didn’t go whine about the loss of his funds either. He simply did what was right.

So why, today, do so many men go about whining? I don’t exactly know. There does, however, seem to have been, in the past few decades or so, a “feminizing” of our culture, which is why there are now websites like The Art of Manliness and books like The Compleat Gentleman, to combat this tendency.

I know, it ‘begs’ the question. How exactly has this “feminizing of men” come about? That would require a much more in-depth answer than we can provide here. In compensation for this lack of explanation, here is one more good example to keep in mind, from CS Lewis, in his book “The Last Battle” (Narnia series):

In the final and desperate battle against evil, some self-serving corrupt dwarves cowardly shoot down a whole bunch of some of the bravest and best creatures in the kingdom, in the back as it were. Edmund, a boy from our world and one of the good guys, starts yelling at the dwarves. Then the King tells Edmund the following, and it is just what we should keep in mind:

“Don’t scold, like a kitchen maid; hard knocks or else courteous words are the only language of a knight.” Or, we can add, of the well-dressed gentleman: well-dressed in clothes, etiquette, kindness and manly courage.

What the Gentleman Wears for a Tipple and a Coffin Nail

I don’t know if you ever peruse the dictionary, but there are some pretty rummy things in there. Dipping into old Webster’s book recently, I came across the word “butterball.” Now, if you live in America you’re probably expecting the same definition that I did—something along the lines of, “butterball, noun/name. The brand name of a poultry company; a Butterball Turkey, usually frozen, not to be dropped on one’s foot.”

Alas, our naiveté is exposed—we simply don’t take seriously enough the dictionary’s propensity for playing practical jokes. Sure, the dictionary seems serious and verbose, but then it throws this sort of thing at you when you least expect it:

“Butterball, noun. The bufflehead.”

Yep, that was the whole definition.

Granted, the dictionary I have to hand is from 1942, but it’s tough to believe that even in the 1940’s one would read that and say, “Ah, the bufflehead! So that’s what a butterball is!”

After a bit of dictionarial detective work I discovered that the bufflehead is a type of duck. Maybe some of you avidly sit behind duck blinds making encouraging and duck-like spitting sounds with a kazoo, gun at the ready, and this is old information; but it was news to me. One lives, one learns.

But I imagine that the experience of having the dictionary spring “bufflehead” on me is similar to the perplexity that many lads today would experience if someone asked them to don their smoking jacket for a tipple and a coffin nail (port, cognac or bourbon and a cigar). Surely we know well enough about drinks and cigars, but what of the former item? What does one do with that? Behold, dear gentlemen: the Smoking Jacket, the proverbial “bufflehead” of our times.

The smoking jacket is made of colored velvet, the classic colors being dark green, dark violet, burgundy and blue. Sometimes the collar is made of a contrasting color—black silk, for example. It is a quite elegant outfit, and gives one a wonderfully relaxed feeling as compared with the tuxedo jacket.

In times past, the smoking jacket was specifically for what it was named after—smoking. One would remove one’s tuxedo jacket, step into one’s smoking jacket, and, well, have a smoke with the lads. Upon rejoining the ladies, a gentleman would put his tuxedo jacket back on; this prevented the ladies from being forced to inhale the un-lady like smoke fumes emanating from smoke-impregnated tuxedo jackets.

These days, the true smoking jacket is not only used for smoking—it is also properly worn to parties in homes and to country balls, and also to a good restaurant or to the theatre.

And the accompanying smoking jacket attire is just the same as back in the day: A tuxedo—put on a tuxedo, and instead of the tuxedo jacket, don the smoking jacket.

As for shoes, one would wear the usual suspects—either black patent leather shoes, or black Oxfords. There’s also the possibility of black Gucci loafers, but if the event is rather traditional skip that extravagance.

If the smoking jacket is simply donned when puffing, one could also pull on a pair of velvet slippers, which are not required to match the color of the jacket.

Where to find one? There are usually a few on eBay, emphasis on "few." Then there's Brooks Brothers, Hilleso Designs (if you can stand the silly photos of the guy modeling the jacket), and Orvis. Just a few ideas to get you started.

The WDG Doffs his Fedora to...

The Village Hat Shop This site is sort of the Library of Alexandria of hat knowledge.  Only, it still exists, and also I'm pretty sure the Library of Alexandria didn't have scrolls about hats, hat history, hat etiquette, a vast catalogue of hats for purchase, and a cool photo of Abraham Lincoln's top hat (which resides in the Smithsonian--I mean the actual hat, not the photo), and a million other essential hat-related bit's o' information.  This is a site to paste into, well, your hat.  

Golf Digest, article on proper etiquette  Don't let the words "Golf Digest" stop you from reading this article on etiquette. Here's a scenario that displays with stunning clarity the difference between behaving like a gentleman, and behaving like a poop.  

With that, toodle-pip, and happy reading my fellow gents...

Spurning the Wily Wares of the Charlatan

How to Detect a Fake “Armani”

There it is—on eBay, perhaps in a thrift store or at a flea market—“Armani.”  It says so, right on the buttons!  On the label!  The logo is on the jacket lining!  Stop!  Do not hit the “confirm bid” button, do not hand over your cash or credit card, just let it go, man—let it go.  It’s a fake. 

Yes, even on eBay, even from the kind old gentleman at the thrift store, even from relatives perhaps, one finds the good ol’ fake “Armani.”  The people selling them might not even know they’re fakes—the suits I mean, not the people. 

Now, those in the audience who know their history of Great Britain will see that this is much the same situation that young Arthur found himself in when confronted with the sword in the stone—Arthur, as we know, was so elated and amazed that he had obtained the fabled sword that it was only years later he realized it was a fake “Armani” sword.  Well, by that time, what do you do?  Admit you’ve been carrying around a fake Armani sword all these years?  Who wants to find themselves in that awkward situation?  Thankfully, such embarrassment is avoidable with a little knowledge of a true Armani (they can be found on eBay and other places, alongside the fakes).

Jacket Pockets:  These only VERY rarely have pocket flaps.  The presence of pocket flaps on an Armani suit jacket immediately raises the ol’ red flag.

The Label:  Wearing the jacket, the label will always be on your right hand side above that right inner pocket. 

The Lining:  The lining is plain, having no logos on it, nor any words, not even “Armani”—it is a simple, unadorned lining. 

The Buttons:  The buttons have no logos on them either, not any words, not even “Armani.”  They are plain, simple buttons. 

This is, however, but scratching the fake Armani surface, as it were. For more and quite reliable information, with photographs of real and fake Armani clothing, check out this guide by Armani_King.  

Cheerio my good man, and happy Armani hunting.

My Name is Coat—Overcoat

As many gentlemen know, there exists, interspersed throughout the world, a sort of overcoat culture. At the same time, it seems apparent that the world in general is in need of an overcoat resurgence; a re-acquaintance if you will.

An overcoat, in its simplest essence, is for keeping the rain, dust, mud, snow, hail, hurricanes, tropical storms and tornadoes from sloshing onto one’s clothes. This is the beginning, the foundational meaning, of the overcoat. With a fair amount of rapidity, it also came in a particular way to be associated with leaving or going somewhere, and vice-versa, with staying somewhere—or being hesitant to stay somewhere.

Putting on his overcoat, a gentleman is saying, “It’s time I’m off.” Removing his overcoat, the gentleman makes the distinct declaration, “I have arrived at my destination.” In the middle of these two bookends of social body language, you have staying and not removing it, which conveys discomfort, hesitancy, or a visit of extremely short duration. These overcoat actions display, in a word, one’s intentions, or lack thereof.

Overcoats also look dashing. And they can look dashing in different ways, depending on what overcoat you’re wearing.

Usually, a gentleman wears an overcoat that is in harmony with his personality AND with the occasion for which he dons it. You can learn a good amount by observing the overcoat one of the lads is wearing. Going hunting? To the office? A wedding? A walk about the country or town? Granted, sometimes it simply means, “I am wearing this jacket simply because I like it, and I don’t care if it exactly matches the circs or not.” But one limits one’s gentlemanly self-expression this way, throwing overboard a whole segment of style; and I say this—as fond as I am of my Barbour jacket, as appropriate as it is for almost any occasion—because it is true, there are other overcoats that convey other things. So, for a truer, more complete sense of style, a gentleman should consider a variety of coats for a variety of occasions. A gent does not need all these coats (below); three—casual, somewhat dressy, and quite elegant— generally cover the proverbial bases:

The dark-blue Crombie: Made from thick wool, a classic English jacket for the town on a cold, crisp autumn or winter’s day.

The Chesterfield: Became fashionable in the 19^th century, and named after perhaps the first man to order one from his tailor, he was a member of one of the branches of the Earls of Chesterfield. Double or single breasted, it comes in blue, beige, and black, with the most famous version being a grey-herringbone wool fabric.

The British Warm, it’s called in England, and closely related to the Trench Coat, as is quite noticeable in the long version of this coat. The BW is made of thick Melton, wool, once in a while from heavy cavalry tweed, and also top-shelf cashmere.

The Polo Coat: Classic American style overcoat, this style was imported from England in 1910 by Brooks Brothers. It is a somewhat casual jacket due to the pocket style, made of new wool, and usually comes in beige or blue, though Turnbull and Asser recommend blue for this style of coat.

The Macintosh: Also called the “mac” or “riding mac.” It is the first truly waterproof raincoat, a true garment out of the mists of time. It’s named after one Charles Macintosh, who in 1822 patented what he called “India-rubber cloth,” and also the modern Computer. Tailors everywhere realized that with the fabric they could make a garment to keep the wet out, and with the computer they could browse the internet. But history is full of tragedies. The raincoats leaked. They leaked because the seams were not water-tight, which is exactly what happened to Hamlet, another tragic figure, while walking on the ramparts late one night and encountering his father, King Lear, whose brother was Henry V. But I digress. This tragedy was in fact turned to success—Charles Macintosh to the rescue! He saved the reputation of this “rubber-cloth” by developing the seam water-proofing, and putting together the first truly water-proof jacket.

The “Slip-On,” or “Raincoat”: Very nearly a Macintosh, but not. It’s made of gabardine, rather than a rubberized material, as is the Trench Coat.

The Duffel Coat: This is the only overcoat of classic style to be fitted with a hood. This is exactly not the reason it’s called a “Duffel Coat.” Rather, the English word “duffel” most likely comes from the town of Duffel in the province of Brabant, located in Belgium, from whence came the coarse woolen-fabric the coat was made from. The design may have been based originally on a monk’s or friar’s habit, which is why this coat has a good. Just a theory though. It ties closed with toggles that are usually made of some type of animal horn, and comes in a variety of colors, with beige and dark blue being the classic colors.

And, of course, there is…

The Burberry Trench Coat: While not perhaps the inventor of gabardine, Thomas Burberry did patent this water and wind resistant cotton weave in 1879. Burberry’s even retained exclusive rights to manufacture gabardine until 1917. It is a hard-wearing cloth, that gabardine, and English officers first began wearing them in the Boer War. In 1914, the military gave approval to a version of this coat and put together 500,000 for soldiers in WWI, which is why it is called the “Trench Coat.” The military history of the Trench Coat is still actively incorporated into the jacket to this day—note the shoulder tabs, storm flap by the collar, and the “D” shaped rings on the belt, which were originally for a very practical purpose: a soldier would attach various military equipment to the rings. Two things should be emphasized in regard to the Trench Coat:

1. The classic and authentic Trench Coat is to this day made by Burberry.
2. It is water-resistant, not water-proof. If you’re looking for water-proof, Barbour is the way to go (Barbour is not covered here, but is covered here, in a prior post specifically about the Barbour jacket.)

Join the gentlemanly overcoat culture! Keep the elements out, dashingly.